Transition Town Tooting

"from oil dependency to an era of resilience"

Transition Town Tooting

Journeys We Undertake – Which Synchronicities Make

Bruce Mackenzie reports on his trip to the Isle of Eigg, late July 2009

“Since all land is part of Earth, the relationship between people and land is of central importance to Earth governance and Earth jurisprudence”.
Wild Law – A Manifesto for Earth Justice, Cormac Cullinan, Green Books, 2003
The Law of The Land; ch. 12 p.162

Glad of movement out of the city by coach/train/ferry/foot through diverse landscapes journeying to Eigg, precious isle of free, one of the 4 Small Isles (with Canna, Muck, Rum) nestling south of Skye in the Inner Hebrides. First visit was 8 years ago – had long wanted to return.

Eigg – 5 miles (n/s) by 4 (e/w) – its bedrock almost entirely volcanic origin, 55-60 million years ago, a richly diverse geology, topography and wildlife, with community of 85 people. In 1997 under aegis of Isle of Eigg Heritage Trust (IEHT), with support from Highland Council, Scottish Wildlife Trust, many other groups, they bought their land from the last (unpopular) landowner; are now a leading example of communal ownership. Underlying sense of freedom is palpable – a special ambience. Some younger islanders now choosing to stay, others returning (30% of population under 30), boding well for Eigg’s future.

Travelling via Glasgow, Fort William, Arisaig, first sight of the isle was its distinctive silhouette low on the evening sea’s glowing horizon, sheer magic, while walking to Mallaig, small busy fishing port/tourism centre on Scotland’s NW coast. Morning ferry, 2.5 hours out of from Mallaig approaching the isle across a glittering sea; as the ferry ramp clanged onto the pier slope at SE point of isle, a piper sounded the traditional welcome – was good to be back.

Beyond An Laimhrig Community Centre (with shop, café, PO, IEHT Office) at pier head, 4 mile walk to Cleadale at N end of island, passing forestry, the primary school (now 11 pupils), occasional houses/cottages, Highland cattle at roadside, frequent pauses to listen to silence, absorb tranquillity and beauty of changing land and seascapes. So to small caravan on land by family cottage, for 4 restful, mostly fine weather days, no schedules, just intuition and peace, communing with the wild.

With connectedness weaving its constant thread into the wider web of daily life, whether sat by the immaculate white-sanded beach at nearby Laig Bay; or by the caravan, mid-evening, looking out across the Sound of Rum; or through night of high winds, heavy rain drumming the caravan roof (hint of autumn, winter storms); or a fine evening meal at restaurant (converted ground floor of a Cleadale house), talking with fellow diners of progressive politics, Eigg’s magic, a likely Cameron government, of many seeking new ways/approaches/outlooks of living – huge potential – in process yet to be fully realised; or walking/sitting/cooking/reflecting, just the quiet joy of being there on Eigg, absorbing energies and profound beauty, there was the knowing that a few summer days were set within the ongoing work of the island community, their bonds with each other, and with the land of Eigg. Knowing too that this in turn was connected with the wider processes of possible global transformations. Met up again with Maggie & Wes Fyffe at their cottage at Cuagach close by Cleadale, she the indefatigable secretary of IEHT, talking of progress/achievements on community/environment projects, further forestry development, houses and other refurbishments, more visitors, project volunteers, school visits, field studies, a greening of the island – many aspects, the benefits tangible, amidst shared endeavours of skills/roles, in the demanding fulfilling work of small community – all interwoven with island life and family celebration, ceilidhs and other music/arts events and the underlying love of the wild. And a 10 year future greening scenario foresaw further enhancements of sustainability and quality of life (low emission, electric transport, waste reduction, local food growing, reducing mainland dependencies.

Highlight of the past year was the switch on of Eigg Electric (community owned, managed, maintained) all power renewably sourced (hydros, wind turbines, PV systems), an island-wide grid with agreed usage limits at any time (5kW households, 10kW businesses) and meters to monitor. See www.islandsgoinggreen.org and www.isleofeigg.net

As IEHT’s “Big Green Footsteps” pamphlet puts it:
“The island of Eigg is precious. An island is a metaphor for the world. Together we can look after all our islands and so take care of the world.”

So am now returned, energies revitalised, from those slow, quick days to SW London, the island of Tooting Bec, continuing the multi-faceted process of exploring unfolding local community connectedness here in urban setting. Through days of flux/transition, difficult days for many, critical times for Earth and all of us as Earth Community – with realisations dawning of radical commonsense transformations possible, growing and learning together of our true nature and being, within the web, the family of life, journeying on …., what else?

Other Reading:
Soil & Soul, Alastair McIntosh, Aurum, 2004 - campaigner/writer, renowned and inspiring founder member of IEHT
Journal of John Muir Trust – for wild land and wild places – detailed informative articles on land issues (www.jmt.org)
A Sand County Almanac, Aldo Leopold, Galaxy, 1949/1968 – American environmentalist, a classic with section on the Land Ethic.

Tags: Bruce, Eigg, Islands

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Great article Bruce, thanks. It made me wonder about our own somewhat bigger or at least considerably more populous "Isle Of Tooting". What can we do in the city to make our home town more resilient in the face of climate change, depletion of fossil fuels and increasing competition for resources such as water, food and land? Of course there is probably space at tonight's "Imagine Tooting in 2030" event at Tara Arts to work on some answers to that!

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Bruce - lovely article. I particularly loved hearing about Eigg Electric - an inspiring example of decentralised energy. Made me want to travel there myself one day....

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Bruce - lovely article. I particularly loved hearing about Eigg Electric - an inspiring example of decentralised energy. Made me want to travel there myself one day....
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